MFT/3 Replacement Table top Cut in 18mm Moisture Resistant MDF Multi Function Clamping Table

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Then I could cut it to length and I made my jig 800mm in length which is the same measurement as the width of my table top, and that's important. I just secure it with dogs and a clamp, drill out most of each hole with a 1/2" bit, and then finish them off with a 1/2" pattern bit. For me I would like to use the trim router and the Parf system, so no drill but instead a hole that would take a 30mm bush and now another level of hole drilling would be possible, no issues with tilting the drill as the router is all plunge. With all 7 drills holed in the first row, I can then put my awl in the first hole, and this is why it was important to match the drill bit size to the thickness of my awl, and I can pivot the jig around until the edges are again flush with the edges of the table. Next I took my combination square and set the fence at 100mm, and then locked it down nice and tight, and I'm going to use it to find the centre point of my jig by making a cut mark with my marking knife, then flipping the square.

If you want the useful “accessory pack” then you’ll need to fork out again, but really all you need is some star-knobs, a bit of t-track, t-nuts and some 3/4″ / 20mm dowel. I can then secure it in place making sure to use a screw long enough to grab hold of the MDF top but not so long that it would pierce the top surface. Personalised advertising may be considered a “sale” or “sharing” of information under California and other state privacy laws, and you may have a right to opt out.I'm not aware of anyone else doing the 'sacrificial strip', but please use it - it works really well! If all you want is a hole pattern for clamping and not for accurate layout, you can use any number of inexpensive jigs or the old MFT top itself. I could still use the top by flipping it over, but about one third of the 200 holes have rough edges. It's cheap(ish) and plenty durable for a work surface, especially if you give it some sort of treatment.

Next I offered up my steel ruler flush with the end of the jig, and I made knife marks on that centre line every 100mm, again making sure to get it as accurate as possible. Quote from: Francis_Beland on January 10, 2020, 09:06 PM I'm currently in the process of doing this and I'm really disappointed by the 20mm Festool router bit. I'd also recommend just getting the hole started on the top side without going all the way through, and then flip the top over and drill through from the bottom. is probably most appropriate flush trim bit for the job, so size your drill bit accordingly - at least 1/2". However, it is faster and more precise to use workbench plates that are manufactured with the highest CNC precision.The 20 mm hole grid system has become established in our (metric) countries and can be combined with a wide range of accessories for multifunctional tables. Dogs of various sizes, and these come with collars too, and those are showcased in the videos mentioned earlier by Peter and Bisch Basch Bosch - they're going to be really handy, and also some guide rail dogs. Vario-Bench: Multifunctional plate with intelligent perforated grid for angle-precise saw cuts in the format 1,200 x 800 mm, as well as in the format for the Festool MFT (1,102 x 718mm). Now remember, there are two schools of thought when it comes to the DIY group replicating MFT surfaces.

Continue plunging every 96 mm to complete the first row, a total of 11 holes to duplicate an MFT/3 top. Before I go and spend my money on the wrong tools Does anybody know or have a link to the correct bushing size and drill bit that fits the 20mm MFT/3 holes used to prevent damaging the the top before drilling out the bulk of the holes? With the top cut to size, I brushed away any dust and then started to apply some finish, it seemed like a good idea to get it on before drilling the holes.Festool's 20 mm hinge boring bit is made for shallow holes of 10 mm and does not have the precision required for dog holes, and their standard 20 mm bits are made for dados and are not really suited for plunge cutting. I'd much rather employ jigs, fixtures and hard stops like Kapexes to achieve the critical cuts I need.