Trend Multi-Functional Table Routing Jig, MFT Style Worktops, Plunge Router Compatible, Durable Material, Corner Radii & 45 Degree End Cut, MFT/JIG

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I keep looking at “better” alternatives but I can achieve speed, accuracy and flexibility here at minimal cost. The Hole boring jig needs a plunge router and a spiral upcut bit. It can be used to make small accessory pieces that could fit onto the MFT system, whereas the parf guide system seems more suited for a large full size MFT tables. A pair of UJK Technology Parf Dog Rail Clips from Axminster which keep the rail butted up against the dogs. I speak from experience as I have done both… made an MFT style without and with the Parf system... initially, I took care and took my time to ensure absolute accuracy with my without build… the fact that afterwards I even considered the Parf system, speaks for itself. But is it possible to DIY your own ? Well, even if your workshop is pretty well equiped, it's not that easy, but definitely yes, you can. Any individual could make a table and fix rails, so I will not cover these subjects. I will focus on two fields that can bring success to your work :

Another option (if you haven t realized it by now) - get a CNC shop to make a one plate of at least 11 20 mm holes in a straight line (aluminum or laminated mdf best) - then duplicate that for a nice set of straight-line hole plates. You can set up parallels and spacings that follow previously set holes (and your own guides) to make accurate hole patterns. Another option is the Part fence ( https://www.axminstertools.com/us/ujk-parf-system-fence-stop-kit-1-000mm-107462?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD ). Leaves some money to buy a dog hole set and pattern bits. You can come up with quite accurate placement methods with uniform offsets that fall within the tolerance of the hole patters of the original plates. I haven't read all the comments so I hope I'm not repeating any good advice and unintentionally exposing myself to a pissing contest.

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This way I can support a 2800mm x 600mm board, trim both ends, make accurate, clean square cuts every time. When I need to make 7 480mm shelves, I just clamp a stop against the 480mm mark on the fence and lo and behold, I’ve got a production line going. I won't begrudge saving money but I do begrudge people claiming similar accuracy… If you have actually achieved similar accuracy, I could just about guarantee that if you costed time, it would have cost twice the price of the Parf... I was considering a review and decided to do a search first and made a few hits… not being an avid reader and wade through all the responses, I hope that this response covers the subject matter with stuff that may not have been covered.

Another option (if you haven't realized it by now) - get a CNC shop to make a one plate of at least 11 20 mm holes in a straight line (aluminum or laminated mdf best) - then duplicate that for a nice set of straight-line hole plates. You can set up parallels and spacings that follow previously set holes (and your own guides) to make accurate hole patterns. Another option is the Part fence ( https://www.axminstertools.com/us/ujk-parf-system-fence-stop-kit-1-000mm-107462?glCountry=US&glCurrency=USD ). Leaves some money to buy a dog hole set and pattern bits. You can come up with quite accurate placement methods with uniform offsets that fall within the tolerance of the hole patters of the original plates. Credit subject to status and affordability. Terms and conditions apply. Axminster Tool Centre Ltd trading as Axminster Tools is a credit broker and is Authorised and Regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Credit is provided by Novuna Personal Finance, a trading style of Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC, authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Financial Services Register no. 704348. I laid it out pretty carefully, and drilled it on a drill press. It extends 24". After using it a few times I pretty much ignore the first row of holes now, That puts the first line into a nice spot, but if you play around with a paper template on layout you'll find what feels right for you.sets of plastic sawhorses. One of them is a Stanley set which has notches in the top to fix 2 pieces of CLS. For less than the price of one replacement top for a Festool MFT, you can get the jig, make your own replacement top and then start adding gridwork tops for the other work surfaces in your shop. With an array of clamps and end-stops there’s no limit to the workholding arrangements you can set up on a gridwork table. Note that your target piece needs to be flat as you work on the hole pattern. 1/4" out of flat and you ll be fighting the geometry. So, if you are concerned about getting a flat base, I d work on that first - using a torsion box method. On a philosophical side - isn't it a bit crazy how much we are geared for perfection, but not wanting to practice?